Ashgabat, Turkmenistan: The City of Marble and Silence

 

Located in the heart of Central Asia, Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan, is a city like no other. It is known for its stunning white marble architecture and grandiose monuments. Ashgabat presents a surreal landscape that is both breathtaking and hauntingly quiet. Emphasis on 'hauntingly'. The city's streets, lined with gleaming marble buildings and wide avenues, are often deserted, giving Ashgabat the nickname "the city of the dead."

The Eerie Silence

Lets talk about the eerie silence. One of the most striking aspects of Ashgabat is its emptiness. Despite its grandeur, the city center is frequently devoid of people, creating an atmosphere that is both surreal and unsettling. The lack of pedestrian traffic is partly due to strict regulations that discourage public gatherings and casual strolls (just take a moment to imagine such a city). Even during weekends, the streets remain empty, with few signs of life beyond the occasional patrol by security personnel[1][2]. Normally, weekends is a bustling time in most cities because most people are free from work and school, however it is different here.

Architecture and Urban Planning

Ashgabat's architecture is characterized by its extensive use of white marble, which earned it a place in the Guinness Book of Records for the largest number of marble-clad buildings[1]. It isn't just the marble that's white. The government mandates that all vehicles must be white. So when you see cars driving down the street, it looks like a white party. The city's design reflects a blend of Soviet monumentalism and modern grandeur, with wide boulevards and monumental buildings that evoke a sense of awe (the city is beautiful no doubt). However, this grandeur is juxtaposed with the eerie silence and lack of activity, making Ashgabat feel more like a movie set than a living city[2][3].

The Old and New City

Ashgabat is divided into two distinct sections: the old city and the new city. The old city, with its Soviet-era architecture, is where most of the population resides and where one can find bustling streets and markets, such as the Russian Bazaar. This market is a rare oasis of life, offering a glimpse into local culture with its vibrant stalls selling melons, smoked fish, and traditional breads[2]. The locals are so nice and easy to get along with. In contrast, the new city is a showcase of modernity and grandeur, but it remains largely empty and sterile[1][2].

Life Under Strict Regulations

Life in Ashgabat is heavily regimented. The government exercises strict control over various aspects of life, from the removal of satellite dishes for aesthetic reasons to the prohibition of drying laundry on balconies[2]. So many sites on the web are banned and Wi-Fi is practically non-existent. Even the city's public transportation system has been altered, with trolleybuses being replaced by buses to maintain a more streamlined appearance[1]. This level of control contributes to the city's surreal and somewhat oppressive atmosphere.

Tourism and Challenges

Tourism in Ashgabat is limited due to the country's restrictive policies and the city's overall lack of vibrancy. However, for those interested in exploring unique urban landscapes and experiencing life in a highly controlled environment, Ashgabat offers a fascinating, if somewhat unsettling, experience. Visitors can marvel at the city's architectural achievements and visit the few bustling areas like the Russian Bazaar, but they must navigate the strict regulations and limited freedom of movement[2][3]. For example, tourists must have a tour guide at all times, and some locations are prohibited from visiting.

Conclusion

Ashgabat is a city that defies conventional urban norms. Its blend of grand architecture and eerie silence creates a surreal experience that is both captivating and haunting. Whether you are drawn by its architectural marvels or intrigued by its unique cultural context, Ashgabat is a destination that will leave you with unforgettable impressions.